This was not how I pictured these past two weekends going when I set out to try and finish the 14ers back in June. I couldn’t have picked a worse weather window, 50-70% chance of thunderstorms and rain/snow likely in the afternoon, a report that lived up to its billing. Even though I skipped the Little Bear-Blanca traverse last weekend due to unsatisfactory conditions (wet with graupel), I was still able to summit all three peaks in the group. Then on our night hike Brian and I got rained on for almost three hours, but still managed to summit again. This weekend’s weather report was equally as horrid, but Steve and I forged ahead, aimed at finishing the Wilson group on Saturday.
On Saturday we got a little later start than I’d hoped for, and weren’t moving quite as strong as I thought we needed to be given the forecast. We made WilsonPeak in 2:50, then Mt Wilson in 5:40, but by that time a huge dark thunderhead was building to our North and appeared to be sweeping our way. As we sat in the Mt Wilson saddle and pondered our future, a bolt of lightning snapped toward the ground near the head of the valley, decision made, down we went, no Mt Wilson-El Diente traverse and no El Deinte today. As we bottomed out in Navajo basin the clouds rolled over, the peaks
disappeared, and hail began to fall. As we started up the trail toward the Rock of Ages saddle the hail picked up, and the echo of thunder shook the valley, but no visible lightning yet.
We slowly moved up hill, staggered about 100ft apart, when a bolt struck the Wilson-Diente ridge behind us sending us both into a crouch. We proceeded to remain in our crouched position at 12600ft watching lightning strike the surrounding peaks and ridges as the hail steadily pelted us. Finally, after about an hour, the clouds began to lift and the worst of the storm had moved off to the South, so we booked it up and over the Rock of Ages saddle and back down to our car. In total it had been a nine hour day with our hour+ break, and El Diente (an unofficial 14er) was left out there.
After much thought and debate on what to do I decided that my list would have to be incomplete for this year, no El Diente and also minus two of the four ‘classic 14er traverses’ (Little Bear-Blanca and Mt Wilson-El Diente). With only one free day left I opted to continue as planned with a nice morning run up San Luis Peak. I was originally thinking of running up Bondholder Meadow, but that approach seemed a little too circuitous, so I opted for the West Willow Creek approach out of Creede. A beautifully runnable trail that partially follows the CT, I hit the snow capped summit of San Luis Peak at 9:06am (2h02min) and plopped down, having summited my 53rd and final official 14er. Saturday’s storms had left all the high peaks with a thin coat of
snow above 13500ft, and all the rain had left a thick blanket of fog over the valleys below. It would have made for a perfect finish, if things had gone as planned on the two big traverses the past two Saturdays. Unfortunately, it was just another beautiful day at 14000ft.
While I finished the ‘official’ 14ers on Sunday with San Luis, it didn’t feel like a completion, as my original list and intention was to summit the 58 recognized 14000ft summits AND complete the four classic 14er traverses; Crestone Needle-Peak, Maroon Bells traverse, Little Bear-Blanca and Mt Wilson-El Diente. Because of the weather and conditions the past two weekends I’d missed out on the last two and had not summited El Diente. While I don’t regret the choices I made (definitely was the right decision), I’m still bummed to have to leave my list close, but not quite, finished. The mountains will be there next year and I will definitely return for the two big traverses, hopefully in better conditions than the past two weeks have provided. But with pacing
duties in Leadville next weekend, then a flight to France the following, my next free weekend won’t be until September 21st, most likely too late for such ambitious routes. For now I’ll have to be satisfied with completing the 53 ranked CO 14ers, leaving the celebration for next year. Let the taper begin, as I’m off to France in 13days and UTMB starts in 18days!
Hi Eric — I am still looking for photos of you, preferably during your Nolan’s 14—but I’d be happy with any high-res photo of you in the mountains.
Thank you,
Mary
Mary Jarrett, editor
Boulder Magazine
303-443-0600 x 104