Author Archives: Eric

About Eric

Immunologist and Infectious Diseases Research Scientist by day, ultra runner and mountain adventurer in my spare time. Blogging about whatever comes up in life.

Making Lemonade out of Rotten Lemons

Warning: Bitching, moaning, and overall šŸ™ ahead.

Lying in bed with a headache, chills, and feeling overall shitty for the second week this spring….not how I expected my training for the 14ers record to go. I think whenever any of us make big plans we have an ideal plan of how things will go; we’ll get in plenty of training, we’ll feel mostly strong doing so, and all the logistics will come together for our big event. Well, surprise surprise, that rarely happens. I was feeling good after 11 laps on Green Mt in 19h and an overall strong winter when bam, I came down with the flu for a week. No sooner had I recovered from that when some nasty hay fever kicked in and I was coughing and spitting up mucus 24/7. Just when I thought training was getting back on track I got hit with a rhinovirus, taking me out for another week. As I sat at home pouting, wrapped in a blanket when it was 85F outside, I decided I needed a walk, no matter how bad I felt.

Mariposa Lily, seen during my slow sickly walk.

Mariposa Lily, seen during my slow sickly walk.

As I slowly strolled along the trail the humidity of an afternoon thunderstorm clung to my skin, the rustling of the grass and the chirping of crickets tickled my ears, and I was even able to stop and enjoy the flowers blooming in the meadow. I realized, that my woah is me attitude didn’t really do me any good, and that I still had a lot to look forward to. My health would improve, hopefully my bad luck streak would end, and I’d be back to enjoying all the amazing things in life. Sure my training for the 14ers record attempt has not gone as planned, but it does no good to dwell on what could have been. I’ve always tried to live in the present and for the future, though admittedly sometimes I need a reminder. My job now is to do the best I can with what has happened, and take everything one day at a time. So here’s to a healthy next three weeks and a renewed appreciation for all the things big and small in life. I hope everyone else can too.

The Silly Things We Do

This past weekend I hiked/ran 11 laps of Green Mountain in Boulder. It snowed, my feet were wet and cold, my legs were tired and it was hard. The story is kind of boring so that’s about all I’ll say about that. As Jason and I headed up my 11th lap around midnight he relayed that his daughter had asked him why his friend Eric was hiking Green Mountain so many times, to which is his only response was, ā€˜for fun’. The mind of a child is wonderful, she wasn’t questioning if it was possible or calling me crazy, she just wanted to know why, fair enough.

In this case the specific ā€˜why’ is that Green Mountain is one of my backyard peaks, I had a strong urge to get in a big day of vertical, it was logistically easy to self-support all day long and it allowed an easy opportunity for friends to come out and join me (and they did!). But really that’s way too complex of an answer and while it speaks to the ā€˜why’ of the single moment, it doesn’t speak to the ā€˜why’ of the bigger picture. Endurance sports are painful, exhausting, take up tons of time and can even tear us down into raw and exposed emotional states, so really why do we do it?

One of my 11 summits of Green Mountain on Saturday 4/30, it was a long day. Thanks to all the friends who joined me in the snow and slush,

One of my 11 summits of Green Mountain on Saturday 4/30, it was a long day. Thanks to all the friends who joined me in the snow and slush,

While there isn’t just one answer to this question, it’s still an interesting one to ask yourself now and again. For me personally it’s the challenge, camaraderie and underlying insecurities (These may not be your reasons). Sure one could avoid the pain and suffering that comes with an endurance event, but for those of us looking to push our boundaries, how can you really know what you are capable of until you hit that edge, crash and burn and are forced to drag yourself across the finish line tattered and broken? In this challenge you learn so much about yourself, not just physically, but mentally and emotionally as well. The camaraderie is something that sets ultrarunning in particular apart from many other similar pursuits. To the outside world running may seem like a very individual activity, but ultrarunning in particular takes much more support and teamwork than one would imagine. Very few runners will run and/or complete a 100mile race without crew and pacers, training often encompasses long days on the trails with good friends, and even during those tough times of injury and defeat it’s our friends that help us through. Just like in life, camaraderie and friendship make the insane challenges we take on possible.

One of the few 'runnable' sections on the way up Green Mountain, it was a tid bit snowy. Photo by Andy Gisler.

One of the few ‘runnable’ sections on the way up Green Mountain, it was a tid bit snowy. Photo by Andy Gisler.

Now on to the last of my three answers, underlying insecurities, something that may not apply to everyone, but I bet many of you are also afflicted by this even if it’s hard to admit it. At some point in life everyone has been told they’re not strong enough, not fast enough, not smart enough or just plain not good enough for whatever the pursuit may be. This negativity can be taken in two ways; one can be discouraged such as to not put themselves out there for fear of failure, or one can harness the short comings to make themselves better and push themselves harder. Me, I hate being bad at things and when I’m pushed I tend to push back. There have been plenty of things in life that I’ve either failed at or not been wholly successful, but that doesn’t mean you can’t strive to be better and to find that something you are really good at. Failure shouldn’t be depressing; it should be inspiring, motivating and a learning experience.

19hours later I decided I'd had enough Green Mountain for now. Photo by Jason Oliver.

19hours later I decided I’d had enough Green Mountain for now. Photo by Jason Oliver.

So Why? Because I can, because I want to, because I need to, but mostly because why not? If you don’t put yourself out there you won’t ever really learn the answer to that why. But now to the real reason for my madness. As most of my friends know by now I like to hike/run/climb mountains, especially really high ones. I completed Nolans 14 in 2012, but in the back of my mind there has always been the question of whether I could hang with the big boys on something much more committing. So after several years of learning routes, doubting my capabilities and being afraid of the enormity, I’ve decided to take a crack at the supported Colorado 14ers FKT for speed climbing all 58 14,000ft peaks. The record was broken just last year by Andrew Hamilton and stands at 9days 21hours 51min, or approximately six 14,000ft peaks each day for 10days straight, let that sink in…..

While I feel like my skill set lends itself well to this challenge, I’d be lying if I said it didn’t scare the dickens out of me. It’s a massive physical, mental and logistical undertaking, fraught with uncertainties, endless unpredictable variables and innumerous opportunities for pain and suffering, what’s not to like right? So obviously planning and training are already in full swing, more to come on the specifics of my attempt as the target start date of June 29th draws near. Thanks to Vfuel for keeping me powered through all these crazy long adventures and to all my friends out there for supporting my horrible need for self-approval that is endurance activity. For now, run fast, run healthy, but mostly run happy.

 

Distance Elevation Gain Time
11 laps of Green Mt 45miles 25,700ft 19hours 15min
Lap Times 1:35, 1:27, 1:29, 1:31, 1:29, 1:33, 1:40, 1:41, 1:40, 1:45, 1:58

When is it too much?

As endurance athletes we make our living (recreationally for most) off pushing ourselves to and beyond our limits. But in the past several years many of us have become all too familiar with terms such at OTS (OverTraining Syndrome) and Adrenal Fatigue, many of us even know someone who may have struggled with this in the recent past (or present). There are countless good articles discussing these issues, so that’s not my purpose here, rather my intention is to discuss the culture that leads many down this nasty spiral of over training and into months, if not years of recovery.

Finish line of the Gorge Waterfalls 100k, 12:54

Finish line of the Gorge Waterfalls 100k, 12:54

11 days ago I ran and finished the Gorge Waterfalls 100k race in Oregon, I was tired, a bit sore, but no worse for the wear. I’ve found over the past several years that my body seems to recover pretty well from long distance races, so wasn’t too surprised when the following Tuesday (3days later) I was back on the trail headed up the second flatiron for a jog/hike. The legs felt ok so I got out again Wednesday, then Thursday and when the weekend rolled around plans for a mellow ski snowballed into a possibly epic ski mountaineering route around Longs Peak; including some 5.4 climbing, lots of rock hopping with ski gear, and possibly 7500ft of vertical gain, oy.

Headed toward Longs Peak, 4/9/16.

Headed toward Longs Peak, 4/9/16.

We started skinning up the Longs Peak trail just after sunrise on 4/9/16 (one week after running a 100k race). I felt alright, but as we climbed higher and higher my legs began to feel like lead, my stabilizers were shot and I felt wobbly on the rocky terrain hiking in ski boots. The entire day was a slog for me, extremely fatigued, barely managing 1mph much of the time, and just feeling like crap. It was pretty apparent that I was not recovered from Gorge Waterfalls, but had no choice but to finish the route, so 13hours later (note, 14mi took longer than my 100k) I staggered back into the Longs Peak parking lot, completely wasted, so much so that over the next two days all I did was sleep and walk 3miles quite slowly. Special thanks to Jason, Andy and Dana for sticking out this long slog with me.

Sunset as we descend away from Longs and Chasm Lake back to the TH, 4/9/16.

Sunset as we descend away from Longs and Chasm Lake back to the TH, 4/9/16.

So the endurance athletes out there might be saying, ā€œso what, you had a bad dayā€ and that’s what our sport(s) is built on, but at what point is it more than a bad day, and really just a bad idea? In ultra distance running the mental ability to push through pain, to weather the highs and lows and to keep yourself going when most in this world would quit is really what separates many finishers from DNFs. But it is also this incessant drive to fight, struggle and suffer that gets so many in trouble. Terms such as FOMO (Fear of Missing Out), YOLO (You Only Live Once), ā€˜pain is temporary, glory last forever’, and ‘sufferfest’ are often thrown around by well meaning friends and training partners to help motivate others to get out and push through the pain. While this encouragement is a necessary part of success, especially in 100milers, I argue it’s also what leads many into over training territory. Combined with the fact that many of us know only one thing…physical activity, you have a ticking time bomb just waiting to go off.

When you need a nap, you need a nap. 2010 Wasatch 100 Pete decided 500 yards from the Ant Knoll AS he was sleeping, 10 seconds later he was snoring.

When you need a nap, you need a nap. 2010 Wasatch 100 Pete decided 500 yards from the Ant Knoll AS he was sleeping, 10 seconds later he was snoring.

But the real question is, when does pushing your body no longer become beneficial, but rather detrimental. This is exactly what I was asking myself the day after my Longs Peak debacle, and trying to understand if the signs were simply indicating short term fatigue, or if there was a larger underlying issue creeping in. Sadly the answer is, I don’t really know. There are various metrics such as heart rate, blood work, sleep patterns, etc that can help address fatigue, but what it comes down to is you really just need to listen to your body, and do so very carefully. Building in rest week (40+miles/wk is NOT rest) during big training cycles, rest months (or two) during the off season where you do limited cardiovascular activity, and really taking the time to take care of your body during those harder training weeks are probably the key. As the scientific community learns more about over training, we may have our magic biomarker to indicate when it’s happening, but for now the endurance athlete (me included) needs to remember to take a break every now and then, you’ll be better off in the long run.

Inaugural Salomon Run Club group run, 4/5/16.

Inaugural Salomon Run Club group run, 4/5/16.

Last week’s training cycle was supposed to be for rest post-Gorge Waterfalls, but does 19hours on my feet with 12000ft of vertical gain sound restful…I didn’t think so. Thankfully after several days of hard rest and recovery I’m feeling much more normal, but as I ramp into bigger training cycles there will definitely be this seed in the back of my mind…don’t overdo it. In the ten years since I started ultra distance running, 12 years of competing in ultra distance events, I’ve managed to avoid over training issues (plenty of aches and pains though), but have also watched many a friend fall down this rabbit hole. Sorry I can’t provide you any definitive answers, but maybe the ramblings of my brain will sound familiar to your personal struggles or your friend’s. So I hope everyone has a wonderful rest of the week, get in some great trail/rock time, but also listen to your body about what it truly needs, sometimes that’s activity, sometimes it’s a good acupuncture session, sometimes it’s a soak in the hot tub, but sometimes it’s simply rest. Thanks to Vfuel for helping to keep me energized throughout training, and all my friends in the Rocky Mountain Runners and Boulder Trail Runners for sharing many a long day with me. Run fast, run healthy, but mostly run happy.

A few articles for further reading on the topic if you so desire…

Dark side of Fitness, 5280

Overtraining Syndrome, Sports Health

Are you overtraining?, Runners World

Gorge Waterfalls 100k

ā€œI’ve determined running is stupidā€¦ā€ I most definitely said that around mile 50 of the 2016 Gorge Waterfalls 100km run. This was to be my only ā€˜race’ of the year, and while I was in good shape, I was definitely not in peak running shape, which led a pretty impressive deterioration of my mental state throughout the day. This report will delve a bit more into my psyche than talk about the race course, which was beautiful. If you’d like to get a feel for the beauty of the Columbia River Gorge trails check out some of the photos or my race video linked at the bottom.

Great running training right? Skiing Arapahoe Lakes two weeks before the race, 3/19/16.

Great running training right? Skiing Arapahoe Lakes two weeks before the race, 3/19/16.

I don’t think I have ever entered a long distance race (>50km) with less race specific planning than I did for the 2016 Gorge Waterfalls 100km, and if you know me, you know I love my logistics. Four days before about all I knew was that it was near Portland, Oregon, it was 100km long, and was on mostly runnable trails. I couldn’t have told you where the trails were exactly, how many aid stations there were, heck I didn’t even know what time the race started! So I simply threw a whole bunch of stuff in my suitcase then on the plane flight out took a glance at the course and race logistics to devise some semblance of a plan.

Multnomah Falls during our pre-race warmup, 4/1/16.

Multnomah Falls during our pre-race warmup, 4/1/16.

We (a group of Rocky Mountain Runners) arrived in Portland just before midday Friday, so after grabbing a quick lunch we drove out to checkout the course and to see some waterfalls. We had lucked into one of those weather windows that only visits the PNW on rare occasions, so tromping around the sun-soaked lush green forest to the top of 620ft Multnomah falls seemed other worldly. The stoke was high and all of us were excited to run the whole course the following day.

The alarms buzzed at an all too early hour (3:50am) and after the standard morning rituals we made our way over to the start line at Benson State Park, got checked in, then just milled about for the next 45min. We were all in good spirits and just ready to get moving, so when James sent us off at 6am we were relieved to channel our nervous energy into something productive, moving forward. My initial race plan was to take it fairly easy overall and just enjoy the course, so I trotted off at a casual pace somewhere near the middle of the pack. As the sun rose the roaring that was once hidden by darkness was exposed for the beautiful cascades that they are. I jogged along snapping photos and taking video, not thinking much about the pace.

Wiesendanger Falls, one of many in the first 5miles of the course, 4/1/16.

Wiesendanger Falls, one of many in the first 5miles of the course, 4/1/16.

As I cruised through the first two aid stations (No Name and Yeon) it became apparent I was moving way faster than I’d intended, but it felt good so I just kept cruising along. Surprisingly, I found myself mostly running alone after the first 15miles, though I guess this is a situation I find myself in more and more; behind the lead pack, but in front of the mid/back of the pack. My mind wandered to the lichen coated trees, the moss covered rocks and the tiny wild flowers that dotted the green carpet that surrounded me. I couldn’t decide if I expected fairies to pop out from behind the trees or if there were Ewoks hiding in the ferns.

Ponytail Falls, yep the trail goes right behind it, 4/1/16.

Ponytail Falls, yep the trail goes right behind it, 4/1/16.

Sweet sweet singletrack along the Gorge Waterfalls course, 4/1/16.

Sweet sweet singletrack along the Gorge Waterfalls course, 4/1/16.

As the miles wore on I could tell all the runnable douche grade was getting to my legs and I was losing that pep in my step. After passing a few friends on their return trip (it’s an out and back) I hit the turn around, refueled a bit then set off back up the long 5mile climb. For some reason in my mind I thought I could use the energy of the other runners I passed to push myself hard up the climb, and that would be a good thing…..oh boy was I wrong. While I was able to run most of the climb, it sucked the energy right out of me and sent me into a downward spiral. I fell into a calorie and electrolyte deficit and trudged my way into Cascade Locks feeling pretty defeated and a little light headed.

This is about how I felt from mile 35-45, 4/1/16.

This is about how I felt from mile 35-45, 4/1/16.

It was good to see a few friendly faces there as it gave me an emotional boost, but I still wasn’t feeling so hot and had to talk myself out of sitting down several times. Finally I grabbed a Reese’s and just set off up the trail at a swift hike, determined to keep moving forward no matter what. The next several miles felt like an eternity, my body felt ok, but my mind was incredibly foggy. Finally a few miles before Yeon my mind and body finally started to rebalance and I felt 100x better, so I cruised into the aid station with a bit more spunk.

Calypso Orchids also known as Fairy Slippers dotted the entire course, 4/1/16.

Calypso Orchids also known as Fairy Slippers dotted the entire course, 4/1/16.

The legs were still heavy, but at least I was back to moving a bit quicker. I was still quiet grumpy (for me), grumbling about the slippery rocks, the excessively runnable nature of the course and contemplating why I even signed up for this stupid thing. Even though I was feeling much better I found myself walking a whole bunch, just not feeling the motivation to put my head down and grind it out. I stopped when I saw pretty flowers and took photos, I paused in front of waterfalls to bath in the soothing mist, and once stopped to close my eyes to listen to the sounds of the rushing water.

When I finally rolled into the No Name aid station I got really excited, not because I knew I was only 6+ miles from the finish, but because I knew I was going to get to hike uphill and run downhill, no more flat!!! (well, less flat at least) I settled into a comfortable power hike and just went, stopping every so often to take a photo, but otherwise just chugging along. When I finally hit the asphalt at the bottom of the final descent I knew I was going to break 13hours, so any sense of urgency completely disappeared, I even stopped with a mile to go to take a picture of one of the waterfalls. When I crossed the finish line, James met me with a high-five to which I definitely responded that the course needed a few more hills, like 5000-7000ft of them. Most of the Rocky Mountain Runners were there to congratulate me, and the rest of the evening was spent scarfing down pizza and pie, drinking beer and sharing war stories about the struggles we all endured that day.

Recovery done right in Portland, brunch, ice cream and naps, 4/2/16.

Recovery done right in Portland, brunch, ice cream and naps, 4/2/16.

Ten years into my ultrarunning career I’m still learning lessons, first being that hiking and mountain fitness does not translate to faster running fitness (this was more a reminder). Second, I need to eat way more than I did to keep myself fully fueled. Third, is to remind myself that we do these things (races, etc) for fun, and when you’re feeling down sometimes all you need is to pause and admire the amazing scenery to refresh yourself. So while my Gorge Waterfalls 100k run didn’t go very smoothly (5:50 out, 7:00 back), it was a beautiful course, a great race, and a fun adventure with good friends. Thanks to Rainshadow Running for putting on such a wonderful event, all the Rocky Mountain Runners and others who shared the trail for the support and camaraderie, and Vfuel for keeping my fueled and mostly happy along the journey.

Back in Boulder post Gorge Waterfalls, time for scrambling, mountains and skiing, 4/1/16.

Back in Boulder post Gorge Waterfalls, time for scrambling, mountains and skiing, 4/1/16.

In the coming months I’m looking forward to getting back to climbing lots of mountains, backcountry skiing and scrambling as I prepare for some big summer projects ahead, stay tuned……

2016 Gorge Waterfalls 100k Race Video

Falling off the Wagon

Well my two week no sugar experiment is over, and it was interesting. The first several days of cutting added sugar and sweeteners (not whole fruit) had me feeling a bit run down, partially because I realized I was not getting enough calories. After the first few days I was able to settle in and my body started to equalize with the new diet. Oats for breakfast, leftovers and fruit for lunches, and cooking some sort of meat, grain and veggies for dinner. The biggest change for me was that my snacks consisted of fruits, veggies and nuts/nut butter rather than crackers, granola bars or other processed items. The only lapse I had was when I accidentally ate some banana chips only to realize they were sweetened.

After the two weeks was up I guess I gently fell off the wagon at first; consuming a doughnut, piece of birthday cake, a bowl of ice cream and some dark chocolate over the next week. The real test came during my conference this past week, eating well on the road is always a tricky endeavor and takes extra effort. We were served muffins, cookies, brownies, sugar cereals….all of which I partook, though I tried to stock my bag with fruits and other healthy snacks to stave off the cravings. I was mostly successful the first three days, but completely feel apart on the 4th day, consuming a bowl of cheerios, two brownies, three small cookies and a bowl of ice cream in one day, oops. And oy did I feel off that night after those sugar bombs.

Doesn't all this sugar look delicious?

Doesn’t all this sugar look delicious?

So the original experiment was a success and at home I’ve been able to shift around my eating habits when I have complete control over meals, my will power is still pretty weak when presented with tougher choices or when temptation is dangled right in front of me. So I’m hopping back on the wagon now that I’ve returned home, trying to eat a better balance of food and to remove the sweets yet again. So I guess the clichĆ©, ā€œold habits are hard to break” is pretty true. In light of this and my complete meltdown at the conference this past week, I’ve decided to restart my no sugar/sweetener binge the first two weeks of March…with one exception, a few squares of dark chocolate now and again šŸ™‚ Ā I know, I know, a slippery slope for sure, but at least I’m going in with the rules established. Not too surprising, but breaking bad habits does take effort and a lot of commitment, not just sometimes, but all the time. So back to the drawing board, and hopefully now that I’m back home I can get back into the good routines that I setup earlier in the month.

EDIT: I’ve had a few requests for a diet log for what I did. Even though I didn’t keep an official log, here are a few examples in more detail of meals/snacks and what I ate throughout the day. I found the key to keeping temptation away is to make the right choices on food you buy and keep around the house. Lunches were the hardest for me being at work with no time to prepare anything.

Breakfast: Rolled Oats with apples/cinnamon, blueberries, bananas/walnuts, or tsp cocoa powder/walnuts. Scrambled eggs with mushrooms, bell peppers, tomatoes, arugala.

Lunches: Dinner leftovers (see below). Turkey (careful here, as much of this is sweetened) and avocado wraps in corn tortillas. Sandwiches are ok, but most commercial bread has sugar. Be careful when purchasing lunch meat or jellies as many are sweetened with added sugar/HFCS.

Snacks: Pretzels and peanut butter or avocado, fruit (apples, bananas, oranges, blueberries, etc), nuts (cashews/almonds), baby carrots, cucumber slices and hummus.

Dinners: SW quinoa; quinoa, corn (can be frozen), bell peppers, anaheim pepper or similar, black beans, grilled chicken if desired. Stir fries; shrimp/chicken, broccoli, bell peppers, onions, snow peas, egg plant, mushrooms season w garlic, ginger, cumin or whatever suits your pallet serve over rice. Endless permutations. Sweet potato curry; sweet potato, broccoli, bell peppers, water chestnuts, mushrooms season lightly with curry. Curry sauce; 1 can coconut milk, 2 tbl of curry powder (adjust to desired spice level), simmer and mix. Serve over rice with sauce on top. Grilled/seared fish with a small basic side salad (not good as leftovers). Pasta with pesto and grilled veggies (bell peppers, mushrooms, onions)

Most of these meals make good leftovers and store well, so you can make larger quantities when time permits.

You Are What You Eat?

…so I guess I must be a giant sugar cube. I’ve never been one for New Years resolutions, rather opting to try to improve myself on a daily basis. While I usually try to eat somewhat healthy, I know I’ve got room for improvement in that field. Recently I was reading through ingredients on several packaged foods and kept noticing one theme pop up way too often….sugar. If you know me, you know I have a pretty bad sweet tooth; gummy bears, Reese’s PB cups, otter pops, ice cream…., but was somewhat surprised how many other things I could add to this list. Items like bread, many salad dressings, granola bars, frozen sweet potato fries, peanut butter (non-natural varieties), 75% dark chocolate, chai tea mix, many almond/soy milks (except unsweetened variety), pasta sauce, and on and on.

Though usually I succeed on consuming these only in moderation, lots of moderation can lead to excess. So I’ve decided to perform a little experiment on myself and take two weeks where I don’t consume anything with added sugar or sweeteners (cane sugar, corn syrup, agave…its all sugar). Before anyone out there launches into a diatribe about eating vegan, or gluten free, or raw, or paleo or whatever else diet you think is best…..that’s not the point of this exercise. It’s simply to become more aware of what I eat and put into my body, and to see how difficult it is (for me) to eliminate such things from my diet and how it makes me feel.

I’m not a dietitian and far from an expert, but simply an observant human being (and scientist) who loves to experiment. I know a lot of this can be remedied by simply cooking for myself more often, but as someone who spends 11hours/day associated with work and likes to recreate/socialize every once and a while, that doesn’t leave an over abundance of time for 3 complex meals a day. Yes yes, excuses excuses, but that’s the goal of this little exercise, to break old habits and negate the excuses for long term change. So let’s see how this goes. Note, I don’t plan on giving up sugar/sweets forever, what fun would that be šŸ™‚

I’ll update on how this little test went in two weeks…..

2015 Year in Review

I’ve been somewhat slacking of late in my writing, too much work, too much wandering, and just too much scatter brained-ness going on. While I try not to live in the past, its always good to take a moment to reflect, remember and relish all the wonderful things one has done. 2015 was an amazing year, some amazing highs, some tough spots, but overall full of friends, fun and adventure. First a quick synopsis of a few stats, because I’m geeky like that, then some photographic highlights from the year.

Miles

Vertical Gain

Time on Feet (h)

Vertical/Mile

Running/Climbing/BC Skiing stats

2686.5mi

678,700ft gained (New PR)

749.73hours of time on feet

252.6 ft/mi gained

Since my last post about UTMB way back in September I’ve been to the Eastern Sierras for some fall running, scrambled a number of flatirons, spent a week in Zion canyoneering, snagged several days of back country skiing, had a feature article published in the inaugural ā€˜Boulder Running Journal’, and spent the holidays in California. Life has not been short on action and fun, and when 2015 is all said and done I’ll have spent 17 days traveling on airplanes, visited five different countries, seven different states and summited Green/Bear/Sanitas a cumulative 96 times. Here’s to a great 2015 and hopefully and even better 2016.

Celebrating the win with my sister and nephew, best High-fiver ever. Mississippi 50, 3/8/15.

Celebrating the win with my sister and nephew, best High-fiver ever. Mississippi 50, 3/8/15.

Running through the redwoods on a beautifully sunny California day, Miwok 100k 5/2/15.

Running through the redwoods on a beautifully sunny California day, Miwok 100k 5/2/15.

This place is alright. Relaxing and taking it all in at Yosemite Point. 7/1/15.

This place is alright. Relaxing and taking it all in at Yosemite Point. 7/1/15.

Headed toward the Maroon Bells on the shortcut from Snowmass, 7/25/15.
Headed toward the Maroon Bells on the shortcut from Snowmass.
I've never been good at tapering. Pre-race play time in Iceland, 8/21/15.

I’ve never been good at tapering. Pre-race play time in Iceland, 8/21/15.

Finally atop the Grand Col Ferret, rough climb, but now I get to go downhill.

Finally atop the Grand Col Ferret, rough climb, but now I get to go downhill.

First time back in the Eastern Sierras in a long time, 9/26/15.

First time back in the Eastern Sierras in a long time, 9/26/15.

Zion Narrows for Thanksgiving, 11/28/15.

Zion Narrows for Thanksgiving, 11/28/15.

Early season touring in the Indian Peaks, 12/20/15.

Early season touring in the Indian Peaks, 12/20/15.

 

Redemption at the 2015 UTMB

As I descended into Courmayeur just before sunrise, doubt began to creep into my mind, what if my legs failed again, what if something happens…again? I deliberately slowed my pace down the steep dusty switchbacks, even though I felt pretty good, but also understanding that I had almost 60miles of mountains left. The DNF demons of 2013 still chased me, even on race day, but sometimes out of our greatest failures, come our biggest successes. So hang with me, as this is going to be a long one. If you’re curious about my ā€˜training’ for the 2015 UTMB see my previous blog.

Prerace

On August 19th after a summer of playing in the mountains, admittedly with a much more relaxed attitude toward training than I’ve had in previous years, I hopped on an Iceland Air flight bound for Iceland, my first stopover enroute to the 2015 UTMB race. But this story actually starts in 2013, when I made my first trip to France to attempt the UTMB. The scene was the more energetic and stimulating than anything I’d ever been a part of (dwarfing Western States), the mountains were more dramatic than anything on the Hardrock course, and the field was by far the largest I’d ever run in (2400 runners). Admittedly my first trip to UTMB was overwhelming, I got caught up in a lot of the hype, and in the end I was handed my first ever DNF (at La Fouly, 110km) due to mechanical issues that ended up severely inflaming my left knee to the point I couldn’t bend it. That day has haunted me ever since, but in 2015 I was given a chance at redemption.

I've never been good at tapering. Pre-race play time in Iceland.

I’ve never been good at tapering. Pre-race play time in Iceland.

Pre-race I spent several rainy days running around the volcanoes and glaciers of Iceland, probably not the most physically restful thing I could have done, but traveling alone allows me to mentally recuperate and relax. It’s a beautifully diverse country, with great people and amazing scenery, I highly recommend a stopover if you get the chance. On Tuesday August 25th I caught a flight to Geneva, Switzerland and made my way to Chamonix, because even though my race wouldn’t start until Friday, I wanted to see my good friend Chris off as he started his journey on the TDS course (120km sister race to UTMB). Wednesday morning I caught the bus over to Courmayeur with several friends, watched the TDS runners sprint off into the early morning light, then spent the rest of the morning eating croissants and enjoying Courmayeur, this was the only time I’d get a chance to enjoy the town in the daylight as both in 2013 and again in 2015 I’d roll through just before sunrise.

At race check-in along with our 2300+ closest friends.

At race check-in along with our 2300+ closest friends.

Back in Chamonix the town was electric, most of the 5000+ runners (between OCC, CCC, TDS, UTMB) had arrived and many were milling about the downtown, the vendor expo and check-in. In some ways its complete chaos, but it’s also the most excitement and energy you’ll find at any Ultramaraton event, part of what makes it so special. I finally met up with my parents and several friends from Colorado and settled into our condo on the outskirts of town, just far enough from the madness. This year since I knew what to expect, my goal was to avoid much of the chaos downtown and to simply relax in the days before the race. Note, this is the first time I’ve EVER started a 100mile race more than once, every other race I’ve started and finished exactly once. Wednesday and Thursday went by fairly uneventfully, as Ryan, Amy and the entire household simply kicked back and relaxed. Finally Friday arrived, and after an early breakfast, some last minute gear organization, I laid down for a nap as UTMB doesn’t start until 6pm Chamonix time.

 

Team Colorado taking a little siesta before the afternoon start of UTMB. Photo by Kerwin Lee

Team Colorado taking a little siesta before the afternoon start of UTMB. Photo by Kerwin Lee

All smiles, til we meet again back at in this same spot, hopefully as finishers. Photo by Kerwin Lee

All smiles, til we meet again back at in this same spot, hopefully as finishers. Photo by Kerwin Lee

The Start: Chaos, Excitement and Patients

Around 4:30pm we all rolled down to the start line where people were already lining up and a massive crowd was gathering. Ryan, Amy and I stood to the side in an effort to stay out of the sun (race forecast was for hot and sunny conditions throughout) and keep ourselves relaxed. Finally the 30 minute call went out, Ryan headed up to the elite runners bin at the front, while Amy and I began to squeeze our way into the massive crowd that was lining up behind the start line. Two years ago I’d started nearly 1200 people back, which made for a slow and frustrating first 8km, this year I’d resolved to push my way into the top 500 or so. The announcers roared over the PA, something in French, the crowd began to clap, and the gun went off sending all 2400 of us on our way. I slowly jogged through town, past the thousands of on lookers, eventually finding my way to the outskirts of Chamonix where I was able to open up the stride to a comfortable run on the gentle crush gravel downhill. 43min later I rolled into Les Houches (8km), quick but it felt pretty easy and comfortable, now I was in a good spot in the field (top 400). Two years ago the incredible energy of the start and early aid stations had me so amped up I blasted through the first 30km, this year I was resolved to just run my race, enjoy the scene, and to not worry what the other runners (most of whom went out too hard) were doing.

Start of the 2015 UTMB, runners streaming out of Chamonix. Photo by Kerwin Lee.

Start of the 2015 UTMB, runners streaming out of Chamonix. Photo by Kerwin Lee.

Sun setting as we climb the first hill to Le Delevret

Sun setting as we climb the first hill to Le Delevret

Me arriving at Les Contamines, all systems go and plenty of smiles. Photo by Kerwin Lee

Me arriving at Les Contamines, all systems go and plenty of smiles. Photo by Kerwin Lee

I popped out my poles and settled into a strong uphill hike toward Le Delevret, our first climb of the day. The climb went very smoothly, I stopped to take a few pictures of the sunset on the surrounding mountains, chatted with my new friend Kris from the UK, finally cresting the ski resort and hitting the steep grassy downhill into Saint-Gervais. Kris took off down the steep but runnable slope, I was somewhat hesitant, as the DNF of 2013 lingered in the back of my mind. Still I made it into Saint-Gervais about 28min ahead of schedule (2:27, 21km, 403rd). I briefly greeted my mom, grabbed some water and a snack and jogged off through town, high fiving dozens of kids along the way, because how could you not! As I jogged the rolling single track and gravel road up the valley toward Les Contamines, the final bit of daylight faded away, I kept my headlamp off as much as possible on the easy terrain, reaching Les Contamines feeling strong and energized (3:49, 30.7km, 319th). I walked into the crowded aid station, filled my water, grabbed a snack, all the while trying to find my parents in amongst the chaos. Finally my mom came sprinting through one of the gates, the aid workers had refused to let her in for some odd reason. We sat down at a picnic table as I refilled my Vfuel and trail mix stash and chatted about what I expected for the long night ahead, the next crew point would be Courmayeur in 47km! I gave my mom a sweaty hug, a quick pep talk to my friend Louis who was having a rough patch, and jogged off into the darkness.

Notre Dame de la Gorge may only be a check-point and a church, but they put on one heck of a party. Photo by Kerwin Lee

Notre Dame de la Gorge may only be a check-point and a church, but they put on one heck of a party. Photo by Kerwin Lee

The Long Dark Road

I jogged my way up the valley, past the checkpoint at Notre Dame de la Gorge (really more like a party) and up into the black abyss. This would be our last major sign of civilization until Courmayeur, 8hours later. Again I snapped out the poles and settled into my fast hike. As I climbed toward La Balme the full moon rose from behind the mountains, illuminating the alpine terrain, so I switched off my headlamp choosing to move solely by moon light. I still hold that night running is an acquired skill, come join me for a BTR night run sometime and I’ll tell you all about it (Wed at 8:30p). As I neared the Col du Bonhomme I glanced back at the trail of headlamps winding up the valley and the aid stations far below, what a night. I soon reached the Refuge du Bonhomme, reracked my poles and began a moonlit descent (yes still no headlamp). I cruised into Les Chapieux (6:58, 49.4km, 222nd) having passed almost 100 runners in 20km, many of them with my headlamp off (to their surprise).

View of the line of headlamps between Notre Dame and La Balme from just below the Col du Bonhomme.

View of the line of headlamps between Notre Dame and La Balme from just below the Col du Bonhomme.

The energy of the race had faded a little, but I was still feeling strong; so after downing some soup and a glass of coke I set out on the long haul to Lac Combal. As I climbed toward Col de la Seigne I again switched off my headlamp, enjoying some moonlit trail silence, soon finding myself cruising down toward Lac Combal. As I jogged down the hill I glanced to my left and noticed a line of headlamps leading toward a Col several hundred meters above me, and became very puzzled as I could see Lac Combal below, but it became apparent the route was taking us a different direction? I was starting to get sleepy, so figured the reason I didn’t remember this section was because I had done it at night. The climb to the Col des Pyramides Calcaires was a mix of muddy wet grass and loose talus, not very runnable, and the case of the sleepies that was setting in made it even more difficult. As we finally approached Lac Combal (10:00, 65.8km, 161st) I was a little mentally beat, the section had taken me 30min longer than expected, I needed a recharge.

As I reloaded my water and browsed the aid station food I heard someone speaking English behind me, I turned around to see Jamil Coury walking into the aid station, he also looked a bit haggard. We briefly chatted as I stuffed my face with soup, coke and the most delicious cake I’d ever eaten (well it was at the time). As we set off along the dirt road toward the Arete du Mont-Favre a cold fog settled over us, blurring our headlamps into a dull white haze. On the climb out of the valley the fog broke and the beautiful starry night reintroduced herself, I was feeling a little sluggish, but still moving alright. As the steep climb finally gave way to another quad pounding descent, a small bit of doubt began to creep into my mind, as the 1300m descent into Courmayeur was my undoing 2years ago. As I descended the steep switchbacked trail into Courmayeur I definitely held back, knowing I was moving well enough, I figured I’d rather lose 5min than risk blowing up my legs again. I finally popped out of the trees and onto the cobblestone backstreets of Courmayeur just before dawn. I was very relieved to have the long crewless night behind me, as the sun always seems to bring me energy.

Arriving in Courmayeur after a long night in the mountains, still moving up the ranks. Photo by Kerwin Lee

Arriving in Courmayeur after a long night in the mountains, still moving up the ranks. Photo by Kerwin Lee

The Heat is On

My parents (and Abby) were waiting at the Courmayeur Aid Station (12:09, 78.8km, 149th), I restocked all my Vfuel and food, shed any unnecessary warm clothing and took fifteen minutes to eat and regroup. I could feel a little fatigue creeping into my muscles, but overall they felt exponentially better than two years ago, and much stronger. I again bid my parents farewell, as it would be another 40km until I’d see them again, and off up the hill toward Rifugio Bertone I went. I made quick work of the climb and was surprised to be greeted by Sage at the Aid Station, apparently he’d taken a bad fall, tried to limp on, but couldn’t do it so was waiting for a helicopter ride out. The section of trail from Bertone to Bonatti is one of my favorites on the course, a high alpine traverse with panoramic views of the Mt Blanc massive directly across the valley, what a way to start the morning. I cruised through Bonatti and Arnuva and again set out on another long climb toward the Grand Col Ferret, at 2537m our highest point along the course.

Early morning light near Rifugio Bertone, why I love this section.

Early morning light near Rifugio Bertone, why I love this section.

View from Rifugio Bonatti, too bad I can't stay a bit longer.

View from Rifugio Bonatti, too bad I can’t stay a bit longer.

Finally atop the Grand Col Ferret, rough climb, but now I get to go downhill.

Finally atop the Grand Col Ferret, rough climb, but now I get to go downhill.

As I climbed into the warm morning sun my breathing became a bit labored, not in the bronchial constriction way, but more general pulmonary inflammation, or lung butter as we in the ultra world often call it. I slogged on up the hill, but could tell the climbs were going to be especially difficult the remainder of the race. When I finally reached the summit of the Grand Col Ferret I sat down for a moment to take stock of things, my legs felt pretty darn good (all things considered), but I was definitely having trouble taking a deeper breath on the uphills. Thankfully I knew that ahead lay nearly 20km of very runnable downhill so I decided to just let the legs roll and before I knew it I was at La Fouly (17:46, 110.1km, 100th), in great spirits no less. My parents were originally hoping to check-in with me at La Fouly (not a crewable AS), but because of the bus timing and the pace I was running didn’t make it. So I refilled my water, soaked my head under the tap and pushed onward. It was now midday and the sun was baking us with its full force, not my ideal race conditions. As I wound my way down the valley and through several small hamlets I was ever so excited to see that each of them had a public spring fed fountain, so I continually topped off my water and drenched my head in an effort to keep cool, so far so good.

I oh so badly wanted to stop and go for a swim here, but ran on instead.

I oh so badly wanted to stop and go for a swim here, but ran on instead.

At last I reached the short steep climb up to Champex Lac, and my new running mate Alister (Canadian) and I forged ahead up the hot dusty switchbacks. About 2/3 of the way up we came across another spring fed fountain, which was key in refreshing me for the final leg of the long climb. As I neared the crowds waiting at Champex Lac I heard someone call my name, it was my friends Chris and Kate who had come out to cheer me on for the rest of the day, friends and family were just the lift I needed at that stage. In Champex Lac (19:56, 124.1km, 83rd) I quickly changed my shoes, drank a bowl of cold salty soup broth and sponged off again. From the triage that lay around me in the Aid Station I could tell I was handling the heat better than most. After some quick advice from Chris on the last three climbs I bid my parents farewell, it would only be 10-20km between aid stops from now on and barring some major meltdown I had very high hopes of finishing, and finishing strong.

Finally at the top of the climb to La Giete, looking down into the Martigny Valley.

Finally at the top of the climb to La Giete, looking down into the Martigny Valley.

The climb to La Giete (formerly Bovine) was steep, rooty, rocky and dusty; and it sucked the life out of me. My breathing had worsened and I was slowed to what felt like an excruciatingly slow crawl. I hated watching people pass me by, not because I was losing places, but because it meant I was no longer moving as strongly as I knew my legs were capable of. All I could do was trudge on, finally cresting the top of the climb, we traverse through the herd of cattle and dropped into La Giete, were I was able to top off my water before the short but very steep descent to Trient. As I rolled out of the check point my breathing eased on the downhill and my legs had a surprising amount of quickness, so I pushed them a bit, making quick work of the incredibly steep descent and arriving in Trient right on schedule (23:22, 140.6km, 81st). In the warm afternoon sun the crowds had returned and I fed off the energy. The aid stops had fallen into a routine now; restock Vfuel, refill water, sponge off, drink some cold soup, pound a glass of coke and jog on out of the AS.

Leaving Trient in pretty good spirits, two more climbs to go. Photo by Kerwin Lee

Leaving Trient in pretty good spirits, two more climbs to go. Photo by Kerwin Lee

Crews waiting at the Vallorcine AS, Photo by Kerwin Lee

Crews waiting at the Vallorcine AS, Photo by Kerwin Lee

The penultimate climb up toward Catogne was short and steep, and while my pace suffered up the steep section I was able to muster an easy jog across the flat traverse at the top before again bombing my way down into Vallorcine. The sun was finally dropping low in the sky, temperatures were cooling off, and since I knew I was well hydrated I popped a couple of ibuprofen in hopes it would help alleviate some of my lung inflammation and congestion. The descent into Vallorcine was quite enjoyable, my legs felt ok and most importantly I knew there was only one more hill to climb before descending back to Chamonix, I could do this. As I rolled through the small town, the aid station was buzzing with crews and spectators (25:56, 150.9km, 87th). I located my parents and instructed them that all I wanted was water, coke and a half dozen Vfuel, then I’d be off. I gave them one last hug good bye and started to walk out of the Aid Station when my friend Chris held up his glass of beer to cheers me and wish me good luck….oooo that looks really good. I made a B-line for him, asked if I could have a swig and after he obliged took a large gulp of the smooth and slightly chilled ale, just what I needed.

Chris and Kate running me into Vallorcine, its time to get this thing done. Photo by Kerwin Lee

Chris and Kate running me into Vallorcine, its time to get this thing done. Photo by Kerwin Lee

The sun fades away as I enter night #2 on the trail, one climb to go.

The sun fades away as I enter night #2 on the trail, one climb to go.

I then promptly jogged off up the gentle climb toward the Col des Montets. Dominic Grossman and I leap frogged back and forth up to the base of the Col, where darkness set in, we crossed the road and shit got real, 600m of extremely rocky vertical in just a few kilometers. As we pounded our way up into the darkness I noticed my lungs were feeling a bit better, whether it was the ibuprofen or the cooling temperatures who knows, but I was able to keep pace. When we finally crested the top of the steep section my Canadian friend Alister pointed out a light far off in the distance, that was La Flegere, the final aid station, and boy did it look a lot further than 4km away. We jogged/hiked our way through the undulating traverse on some of the most technical terrain of the entire course, the legs and mind were tired, but Chamonix was near. At last only a short section of dirt road separated us from La Flegere and we both breathed a sigh of relief as we strolled into the last checkpoint of the race (28:41, 161.6km, 89th). I filled one of my water bottles with water and the other with coke, it was time to get this done, so both Alister and I hammered out of the ski lodge down the dirt road toward Chamonix. The final descent is a mix of gravel jeep road, rooty and rocky single track and finally a little bit of pavement. We pushed a good pace through the technical sections and before I knew it the trees parted and we were at the ski lift on the edge of town. A huge smile cracked across my face, as all that was left was a few kilometers of pavement across town and I’d have my redemption. We wound our way through the streets, past a handful of on lookers who cheer us home (it was almost midnight after all), finally making a left turn onto the final ā€˜straight-away’. Neither of us slowed, but simply ran side by side past several hundred cheering spectators, finally spotting our crews waiting for us near the finish line. My Mom and Alistair’s friend joined us for the final 100ft through the finish chute and I made an emphatic leap across the finish line, it was done, the two year wait was over, I was a UTMB finisher.

Alister and I crossing the finish line at the 2015 UTMB. 86th overall in 29:37:38 I'll upload a better photo once I get one.

Alister and I crossing the finish line at the 2015 UTMB. 86th overall in 29:37:38
I’ll upload a better photo once I get one.

The Colorado household goes 3 for 3, Ryan (9th), Me (86th), Amy (575th). Photo by Kerwin Lee

The Colorado household goes 3 for 3, Ryan (9th), Me (86th), Amy (575th). Photo by Kerwin Lee

A few shared high fives, a hug and some photos were snapped. My mind didn’t care that it was nearly midnight, that my body had been awake for nearly 40hours, that I’d been running for 30hours, or that my legs were tired, stiff and sore, no, all it cared about was that I’d finished and the massive smile on my face made that evident to all. I chatted with all the friends who had come out to see me finish, even Ryan had limped his way down to the finish line to congratulate me (he’d finish many hours earlier in 9th overall!). It was amazing to share that moment with everyone; family and crew, training partners, friends, supporters and the other several hundred brave souls who were still awake in the middle of the night awaiting the arrival of more runners. While the words in this report describe my experience, I still can’t fully put into words everything that the 2015 UTMB was for me; redemption, elation, sacrifice, perseverance and satisfaction. We don’t do 100mile races because they are easy; we do them because they push our limits, they test our strengths, they break us down and expose our weaknesses, but most of all they provide a rich diversity of experiences. A mere three days later I was back to running and hiking, my legs had never felt so good after a 100miler, cheers to a quick recovery and more adventure to come.

Post-race play time, Murren to Gimmelwald klettersteig, at least I wasn't running.

Post-race play time, Murren to Gimmelwald klettersteig, at least I wasn’t running.

Six days after finishing UTMB my legs felt way too good not to get out and enjoy Gindelwald and views of the Eiger.

Six days after finishing UTMB my legs felt way too good not to get out and enjoy Gindelwald and views of the Eiger.

A special thanks to my parents for crewing me into two nights and a full day, all my training partners for slogging out mountain miles with me (including the Rocky Mountain Runners), Adam Engel of Waldron’s Peak PT for helping fix the weaknesses that derailed my 2013 UTMB, Cindy Stonesmith for the training advice, and Vfuel for supporting my crazy ideas and keeping me consistently fueled. Video of my entire race experience is in the works, stay tuned

Summer of Fun Recap, Next up UTMB!

It’s been a while since I’ve written anything, not for lack of content, but for lack of time. The Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc is rapidly approaching, only 9 days away, so I thought I’d throw a little fun recap out of my ‘training’ for the race, more like playing. Mostly its just a small collection of pretty pictures, hope you enjoy it šŸ™‚

My DNF of 2013 at UTMB still haunts me to this day and I would say it’s been a driving force in keeping myself healthy and strong. Before this year’s UTMB race I’ve taken a little different approach to training, and it hasn’t really been ā€˜training’. After Miwok I was really struggling to find any sort of fire when it came to races, so decided that this year would not be about training and races, it’d be about adventure and fun. July 1st I ran an unsupported 100km loop around the Yosemite Valley, first known time as far as I can find.

This place is alright. Relaxing and taking it all in at Yosemite Point.

This place is alright. Relaxing and taking it all in at Yosemite Point.

The following week I was fortunate enough to join Andrew Hamilton for Longs Peak as he broke the Colorado 14ers FKT. I then paced a good friend Jason Oliver for 40miles at the Hardrock 100 enroute to his first finish, always an amazing time in the San Juans.

Sunrise near Virginius while pacing Jason Oliver at the 2015 Hardrock 100

Sunrise near Virginius while pacing Jason Oliver at the 2015 Hardrock 100

 

Trudging our way through the snow up to Oscars Pass

Trudging our way through the snow up to Oscars Pass

I finished off July with the Pawnee-Buchanan Loop and a successful connection of Capitol Peak, Snowmass Mt and the Maroon Bells in just over 15hours.

Descending off Buchanan Pass on the Pawnee-Buchanan Loop.

Descending off Buchanan Pass on the Pawnee-Buchanan Loop.

Traversing Pierre Lakes basin between Capitol and Snowmass during the Capitol-Snowmass-Bells linkup.

Traversing Pierre Lakes basin between Capitol and Snowmass during the Capitol-Snowmass-Bells linkup.
Headed toward the Maroon Bells on the shortcut from Snowmass.

Headed toward the Maroon Bells on the shortcut from Snowmass.

This linkup was something I’ve been eyeing for a while and was the last piece of the 14ers puzzle left to connect. I started at 345am at the Capitol Ditch TH and made steady progress up the standard route to Capitol Peak. I then backtracked over K2 and descended the Wandering Dutchman couloir into PierreLakes basin. The key to an efficient linkup is the class 3-4 ascent of the low point of the Capitol-Snowmass ridge, an otherwise foreboding knife-edge ridge guarded by sheer cliffs, pinnacles and nasty scree chutes. Once over the Capitol-Snowmass ridge I scampered up the backside of Snowmass Mt along the West Ridge, descended the standard route and took a high traverse to the trail just below Trail Rider Pass. Once I hit the trail I immediately crossed over and headed up the valley toward the ridge that separates Snowmass Lake from the Bells, taking a direct line across the high tundra toward the back side of the Gunsight Couloir. The climb up North Maroon’s NW ridge went slow and steady, then I did an out and back over to Maroon Peak across the Bells traverse and descended the NE ridge of North Maroon back to the TH. I had originally intended to go for Pyramid as well, but due to poor planning I was running out of food and didn’t have much warm clothing so left that for another day.

Headed toward Jasper during an extended High Lonesome Loop

Headed toward Jasper during an extended High Lonesome Loop

Jon laying in a field of flowers near Diamond Lake in the Indian Peaks.

Jon laying in a field of flowers near Diamond Lake in the Indian Peaks.

August saw more mountain play time including; an extended High Lonesome Loop including Jasper Peak and Mt Neva, a ridge run from Guanella Pass, the Maroon Bells Four Pass Loop and a scramble up Meeker and Longs.

High altitude ridge running near Guanella Pass.

High altitude ridge running near Guanella Pass.

The Maroon Bells Four Pass Loop rarely disappoints

The Maroon Bells Four Pass Loop rarely disappoints

Making our way up Keplingers after climbing the Loft and Mt Meeker enroute to Longs Peak.

Making our way up Keplingers after climbing the Loft and Mt Meeker enroute to Longs Peak.

My training volume never peaked over 75miles, I never broke 20,000ft of vertical gain (in the past I’ve hit as much as 30,000ft), but I feel very strong and fit after spending lots of quality mountain time outside and mixing in some solid weight sessions a few times a week. Whether this has adequately prepared me for UTMB remains to be seen, but I can say that it’s been quite a few years since I had this much fun simply playing outdoors; having rediscovered what brought me to the outdoors in the first place, a love of mountains, scrambling and off-trail adventure. With only 10 days until UTMB I’m trying to behave myself and keep the energy expenditure down, but with five days in Iceland coming up we’ll see how that goes. I’m excited and ready for some more mountain play time on the volcanoes of Iceland and in the mountains of the Alps. Thanks to Vfuel for keeping me energized throughout all these crazy fun mountain adventures, Adam Engel at Waldron’s Peak for helping me fix my ailments and get me stronger, and all my adventure buddies who have made this summer so wonderful….off to Europe!

The Long Way Around: Yosemite Valley Circumnavigation

Run Stats

Route Yosemite Valley Rim Circumnavigation
Time on Feet 17h 55min
Distance 64.5mi
Elevation 15,750ft Gain/Loss ea
Calories Consumed 3400 kcal; 12 Vfuel, 3 Clif Bars, 2 chewy bars, 6oz trail mix, 1 Justin’s Almond Butter, 2oz M&Ms, 2 fruit snacks, 1oz turkey jerky.
Water Consumed 13-15 20oz bottles (9L)
Salt Consumed 19 capsules/9000mg, approx 400-500mg ea
Calories Burned Approx 8,000 kcal
TemperatureRange 65-85°F

 

Gear: UD UltraVest, 2x 20oz bottles, BD Z-poles, Tikka XP headlamp, Fenix ED10 light, Foretrex 301 GPS, Canon S110 camera, SPOT locator, inhaler, First-aid kit, Emergency blanket, Aqua Mira.

Clothing: iNov8 X-talon 212, Smartwool PhD crew socks, Champion synthetic boxer briefs, TNF Better-than-naked shorts, RMR Patagonia shirt, Moeben sleeves, $1 Walmart gloves, Drymax hat, bandana, OR Helium 2 Jacket.

The actual GPS track from my loop around the Yosemite Valley.

The actual GPS track from my loop around the Yosemite Valley.

Motivation comes in many forms, and all too often I hear people say, ā€œI need to sign up for a race to keep me motivated in trainingā€. I’d argue you don’t need a race, just a goal to work towards. In recent years I’ve come to realize that racing and competition don’t really excite me like it does other, there’s no adventure, there’s no mystery, and the unknown/uncertainty is minimized by the structure. So when I decided to postpone my original big project earlier this year I went searching in California for something fun to do. This is when I noticed a series of trails that seemed to loop around the rim of the Yosemite Valley. I began searching for additional information about the trails, distances and routes, and found very little, and nothing on people completing the full loop. Really? Could it be that no one has completed (and recorded publicly) hiking or running the loop? The closest I’ve found are runs/hikes of the North Rim and Leor Pantilat’s Tenaya Canyon Loop.

4500kcal is a lot to carry around. Prerun packing.

4500kcal is a lot to carry around. Prerun packing.

Early morning light at the Tunnel View overlook, here goes nothing.

Early morning light at the Tunnel View overlook, here goes nothing.

Tuesday 6/30 I flew back into CA, picked up a car, and drove to the boundary of Yosemite to catch a few hours of rest before an early AM wake up. On Wednesday AM as I descended into the Yosemite Valley before dawn the temperatures were already in the 70s, as the forecast predicted it was going to be a hot one (90s in the Valley). I packed up my gear, threw 4500calories in my backpack, 40oz of water, and slathered on some sun screen. At 4:53am I started up the Glacier Point Rd, opting for this easier start than trying to find the connector trail in the dark. I quickly reached Tunnel View and struck on up the trail toward Inspiration Point. As I ascended toward the valley rim the temperature finally began to cool and the views began to open up. I quickly passed by Inspiration Point and found myself at Dewey Point (6:37am, mm6.5). The Yosemite Valley sprawled out below me, with El Capitan’s massive face dominating the Valley wall directly across from me. It was going to be a LONG way until I stood atop El Capitan probably less than 2miles as the crow flies from where I stood.

Sun shining on the Yosemite Valley from Dewey Point, this place is awesome.

Sun shining on the Yosemite Valley from Dewey Point, this place is awesome.

Between the view points the trails weren't so bad. Even in a drought year the flowers bloom.

Between the view points the trails weren’t so bad. Even in a drought year the flowers bloom.

I snapped a few photos and jogged off along the South Rim’s rolling forest and meadow laden trails. A quick stop at Taft Point (7:39am, mm11) to take in a few more views up Valley and off to Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome I went. A light cloud cover kept things from heating up too much, but also led to some hazy views from the top of Sentinel Dome (8:15am, mm13.9). Sentinel Dome is a highly underrated short hike, with views of the Yosemite Valley, Half Dome and into the Yosemite High Country as well, all achieved in under a mile each way from the Glacier Point Rd. I blew past the Glacier Point Rd and opened up the pace a bit as I headed down the smooth switchbacks toward Illouette Falls. Illouette Falls is one of the hidden gems of the Yosemite Valley, dropping 370ft sideways into a narrow rocky valley after starting as a narrow band before being broken into a nice fan. It can only be seen from several view points just below Glacier Point or by hiking up the valley to its base.

Looking down into the Valley and at the Nose of El Cap from Taft Point.

Looking down into the Valley and at the Nose of El Cap from Taft Point.

View from the top of Sentinel Dome toward Half Dome, Cloudsrest and Tenaya Canyon.

View from the top of Sentinel Dome toward Half Dome, Cloudsrest and Tenaya Canyon.

On the trail to Illouette Falls just below Glacier Point. Half Dome, Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls.

On the trail to Illouette Falls just below Glacier Point. Half Dome, Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls.

Often overlooked Illouette Falls.

Often overlooked Illouette Falls.

Another quick water refill and I hiked my way over the Panorama Cliffs and soon rejoined the crowds, briefly, for the run from Nevada Falls to the Half Dome cutoff. As I cruised past the roaring Nevada Falls (9:48am, mm20.9) and up the Merced the constant stream of people reminded me I was still so close to the Yosemite Valley.Ā  I again refilled water, soaked my bandana, and sponged off near the bottom of Sunrise Creek then began the long hot, dry ascent up Cloudsrest. The sun was out in full force and the cumulative effects of the warm dry air were starting to take their toll, but when you’re running around unsupported you just have to deal with it and keep moving. I chugged water as I slowly climbed, but desperately needed too cool off. As luck would have it I found a trickling spring popping out of the hillside at 8200ft, what a little miracle that was amongst the barren dry slopes of Cloudsrest. My pace had still slowed quite a bit in the heat of the day, but I kept plodding along up up up. I reached the summit of Cloudsrest at 12:32pm (mm27.6), fairly tired/fatigued from the heat, but my legs felt alright. I ate some jerky and M&Ms and took a short nap as the cool breeze blew across the summit, waking 10min later feeling fairly refreshed. The panoramic view from Cloudsrest’s rocky summit includes a close-up profile of Half Dome, the giant granite lined bowl that is Tenaya Canyon, and a glimpse of the granitic peaks and spires that make up the Yosemite High Country.

Nearing the rocky summit of Cloudsrest, its hot.

Nearing the rocky summit of Cloudsrest, its hot.

View down the Yosemite Valley from Cloudsrest.

View down the Yosemite Valley from Cloudsrest.

I trotted off down the North side of Cloudsrest toward Tenaya Lake and the long haul around Tenaya Canyon. As I descended the incredibly rocky trail towards Tenaya Lake the all too familiar boom of thunder echoed high overhead in the clouds. As the rain began I was glad I was back below treeline, far from the exposed summit of Cloudsrest. The rain felt wonderfully soothing, and was a welcome change from the relentless heat and sun of the rest of the day, but would be short lived. I settled into a nice jog/hike mixture on the rolling terrain past Tenaya Lake (2:08pm, mm33.6) and around past the tourist crowded Olmstead Point toward Snow Creek. My mind began to become a bit foggy and I was worried the general fatigue was going to shut me down. Another thunderstorm rolled overhead as I crossed an exposed section of trail high above Tenaya Canyon, unfortunately the sun was soon back out heating things back up. My legs still had some decent pep as I cruised down the soft single track toward the Snow Creek crossing.

A quick peak into the Yosemite High Country at Tenaya Lake, halfway home.

A quick peak into the Yosemite High Country at Tenaya Lake, halfway home.

Romping through the forest along Snow Creek.

Romping through the forest along Snow Creek.

I plopped on down next to Snow Creek, wet my bandana and munched on my trail mix, staring blankly at the map trying to decide my next move. I was moving slower, but my legs still felt alright, so I pushed onward, deciding to forgo the spur to North Dome, opting for the more direct line down Lehamite Creek instead. I put on some music, put my head down and chugged my way up the climb to the Indian Ridge saddle. As the sun dropped lower in the sky, the trees began to filter out a lot of the sunlight, cooling things down a bit and softening the light. Before I knew it I popped out at Yosemite Point (6:00pm, mm47.3); the Valley floor was 3000ft below my feet while Half Dome loomed large with the Clark Range dominating the skyline. As I sat enjoying the view I realized this moment was why I’d decided do to this insanely long linkup in the first place. To experience the awesome immenseness of Yosemite in a fashion and at times of day that few others would ever experience.

Cooling off in the upper reaches of Snow Creek, a regular occurrence, and a necessity.

Cooling off in the upper reaches of Snow Creek, a regular occurrence, and a necessity.

This place is alright. Relaxing and taking it all in at Yosemite Point.

This place is alright. Relaxing and taking it all in at Yosemite Point.

As I made my way through Eagle Peak Meadow I did some calculations and realized I’d be coming back into the Valley after dark, not something I’d wanted to do on the overgrown and unmaintained Old Big Oakflat Rd, but not completely unanticipated either. I pushed my legs a little on the flats and downhills, but the ups were a labor, as the fatigue from the long day was really taking its toll. I finally strolled my way across the top of El Capitan’s broad summit and sat down on a rock pile atop the immense hunk of granite (7:38pm, mm52.5). The sun was hidden behind some clouds bathing the Valley in a soft glow. El Capitan may not have the best view of the Valley and surroundings, but it’s a cool feeling to sit atop the monolith, something surprisingly few people do.

On the homestretch, 15 long miles to go.

On the homestretch, 15 long miles to go.

Sunset on top of El Capitan.

Sunset on top of El Capitan.

The sun fades away to the West and back into darkness I go.

The sun fades away to the West and back into darkness I go.

Then began the long trudge back to the car. From the top of El Capitan it was roughly 11.8miles of rolling downhill forested single track and unmaintained access road (dirt) back to my car at Bridal Veil. No more views, just closing out the loop…in the dark. As I crested the final small hill near Ribbon Meadow the last remnants of the sun lit the sky up in an array of yellows, oranges, reds and pinks, then into the darkness I descended. My legs were very happy on the somewhat rough downhill single track, and soon I found myself at the unsigned turn off for the Old Big Oakflat Rd, an unmaintained access road that the park service had ā€˜let go’ of and is now know as the ā€˜Rock slide’ trail for good reason. As I started jogging down the old road grade I found out what 50years without maintenance can do, hundreds of downed trees, tree branches growing right into the track, manzanita narrowing the path to 1-2ft wide, and finally the rock slides. Just after an old view point known as Rainbow View (it was dark, no views) the old road had been ravaged by dozens of large rocks slides, some that have completely wiped out the old road grade. Ever tried navigating sideways through a large talus field in the dark? It’s not easy, and was very frustrating. In all the descent down the Old Big Oakflat Rd was mentally the most painful and frustrating part of the day, because my legs felt good and wanted to run, but I could never get a rhythm going because of the overgrowth and rock slides. Finally after much rock hoping and thrashing I popped out on the maintained service road at the bottom and hopped on the Valley trail that would take me back to the Pohono bridge and the Bridal Veil parking area. I jogged my way across the valley, finally reaching the Bridal Veil parking lot at 10:48pm (mm64.5), completing the whole loop in 17h55min, not blazing fast by any means, but I’d gotten it done.

And there were hundreds of these on the Old Big Oakflat Rd, ick.

And there were hundreds of these on the Old Big Oakflat Rd, ick.

El Cap in the moonlight with a solitary headlamp bivied on the wall.

El Cap in the moonlight with a solitary headlamp bivied on the wall.

I was exhausted, but very happy with the long day. After a quick rinse off in the Merced River (I was filthy) I threw all my gear into the back of the car and drove just outside the park boundaries to a logging road I’d found the previous night and was out within minutes, the rest of the drive to meet my family at the Lair of the Bear where we’d be camping until Saturday would have to wait until morning.

Closing Thoughts:

When I first conceived of the idea of running a loop around the entire rim of the Yosemite Valley, the main intention was to experience as many of the iconic view points as possible, while never returning to the hustle and bustle of the Valley. Except for my one detour off the North Dome loop it was a success, the views were amazing and varied all day long, I saw surprisingly few people, even at major junctions like Glacier Point, Nevada Falls and Yosemite Falls. What I hadn’t expected were all the wildflower laden meadows (even in a drought year), the beautifully soft forest single track and the immense fur and pine forests that encompassed all the sections in between the labeled view points. I’d gotten a little unlucky with the weather; being an abnormally low snow year leading to rivers drying up early and a hotter than usual day, which baked me pretty good from 11a-5p. The only part that I really did not enjoy was the final descent down the Old Big Oakflat Rd in the dark, some of that may have been due to fatigue, but I was definitely frustrated by the rough and unrunnable nature of the ā€˜trail’.

I would love to do the run again someday, but I think the CW direction would be better for several reasons, and placing some self-supported drops at the Tenaya Lake and Glacier Point bear boxes would be a great help. I also think that during a normal snowpack year the flowers could be 10x better than what I saw and water much more plentiful (trail could be muddy in places though). This route would also make a fantastic 3-5day backpacking trip for those less inclined to run, or it could be split into two segments for runners using the free shuttle bus service to/from Tenaya Lake. There are unlimited possibilities for loops of varying distances and difficulties depending what you want to see, many of which have been done before, but putting the whole thing together in one day was an awesome experience, and truly a unique way to get to know the Yosemite Valley Rim.

Special thanks to Vfuel for keeping my energized during this crazy adventures, Cindy Stonesmith at Ultrarunner Training for keeping me in line (physically), Adam Engel at Waldron’s Peak PT for helping fix me earlier this year and all my running/climbing/scrambling/skiing partners for being equally crazy and adventurous. Run fast, run healthy, but mostly run happy.

Here is a link to my Strava GPX from the day.

Here is a link to the video/slideshow of the entire run (approx 10min)